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# Indonesia etc

Exploring the Improbable Nation

## Posts

- [Indonesian medicine regulation: doing well compared with the Mighty FDA](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesian-medicine-regulation-doing-well-compared-with-the-mighty-fda/) - In the USA, the quality of generic drugs is in the headlines again following a recent report by investigative journalists at ProPublica. They tested a total of 11 samples spread over three active ingredients, and found that two did not meet quality standards. In reporting their results, they gave figures for the amount of active
- [Universal Autobiography](http://indonesiaetc.com/universal-autobiography/) - Makbuk Mubarak's film Autobiography is a brilliant (and beautiful) exploration of Indonesia's addiction to feudalism. But if you substitute class or corporate interests for the role of the Indonesian military, it becomes a univeral tale. Makbuk Mubarak's film Autobiography is a brilliant (and beautiful) exploration of Indonesia's addiction to feudalism. But if you substitute class or corporate interests for the role of the Indonesian military, it becomes a univeral tale.
- [Indonesian schoolkids: in praise of creativity](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesian-schoolkids-in-praise-of-creativity/) - This video about fake medicines by schoolboy in Magelang makes me wish he were in charge of public health messaging nationally.
- [Medicine chain gang](http://indonesiaetc.com/medicine-chain-gang/) - Getting medicines to patients across Indonesia's 13,000 islands: what could possibly go wrong? Let's start with an apology for a silence which some of you have been kind enough to point out has been going on muuuuuuch too long. It turns out that pandemics are busy times for people whose day job is in infectious
- [Indonesia has great data on COVID. Does anyone want to look at it?](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-has-great-data-on-covid-does-anyone-want-to-look-at-it/) - For months, Indonesia's "pray-for-prevention" Health Minister and "virus-free-vaccation" President pretended that the country was shielded by some miraculous force-field from the pandemic that was consuming much of the world. For months, most thinking people in Indonesia and elsewhere have know that was absolute nonsense.
- [The Indonesian government forgot to buy medicines. Now what?](http://indonesiaetc.com/the-indonesian-government-forgot-to-buy-medicines-now-what/) - More long silence from Elizabeth. Sorry. It's not that I haven't been thinking about Indonesia. It's that I've been focusing on just one thing: the quality of the medicines in the Indonesian market. With wonderful colleagues like Amalia Hasnida, Yusi Anggriani and Sari Dewi, we've been trying to figure out why people make low quality
- [Capital punishment: Jokowi's shameful move to PPU](http://indonesiaetc.com/jokowis-shameful-move-of-jakarta/) - Jokowi has chosen to move the capital, rather than deal with Jakarta's problems. He is violating at least two of the new site's "10 Cultures of Shame".
- [In memory of 170,000 Indonesians. Or not.](http://indonesiaetc.com/in-memory-of-170000-indonesians-or-not/) - "Living in the moment" is all the rage, and Indonesians excel at it. But is it ok to forget the lessons of the past, or to ignore predictable threats in the future? With 22 out of Indonesian's 22 tsunami warning buoys neglected into inaction, I wonder...
- [Indonesian kids are starving to death: where are the health services?](http://indonesiaetc.com/podes-health/) - 2018 started badly for children in Indonesian Papua; though it's a miraculously fertile province, at least 70 children in the Asmat district died of malnutrition in December and January, and measles and other vaccine-preventable infections are running high. We know about this because Kompas, Indonesia's leading paper, sent reporters to Asmat to spotlight the crisis.
- [Don't make martyrs of religious-themed thugs: lessons from Egypt](http://indonesiaetc.com/dont-make-martyrs-of-religious-themed-thugs-lessons-from-egypt/) - Visiting Egypt, I pondered what Indonesia could learn from the Moslem Brotherhood. Though currently in abeyance, past bans strengthened the Islamist's appeal
- [Clowns demand more of Indonesia's political circus](http://indonesiaetc.com/clowns-demand-more-of-indonesias-political-circus/) - The head of Indonesia's clowns' association feels insulted when people use the term "political clowns". Given the recent behaviour of some of the nation's politicians, it's hard to disagree
- [Sheet happens, yes, but does the mob really rule in Indonesia?](http://indonesiaetc.com/sheet-happens-yes-but-does-the-mob-really-rule-in-indonesia/) - Is the furore over a Chinese religious statue in Java really another example of Islamist intolerance in Indonesia? Or does it reflect a Javanese aversion to an oversized statue of gopping vulgarity?
- [Is invisibility the price of success for Indonesia?](http://indonesiaetc.com/is-invisibility-the-price-of-success-for-indonesia/) - To celebrate Indonesia's 72nd birthday, I post a talk I gave at TED Global in 2014, musing about why the country was so invisible internationally. I reasoned that successful multi-cultural democracies don't make the headlines. Would I give the same talk now?
- [Indonesian president encourages extra-judicial killings (foreigners preferred)](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesian-president-encourages-extra-judicial-killings-foreigners-preferred/) - What is it with Indonesians and the law? It seems to me the country is beset with enthusiasm for purely symbolic laws, coupled with an utter disdain for the actual law. The photo above, taken in the Maduran town of Sumenep by my friend and colleague Michael Buehler, provides a delightful, home-made example of the
- [Just occasionally, words fail me](http://indonesiaetc.com/just-occasionally-words-fail-me/)
- [For the sheer beauty of it: Java from space](http://indonesiaetc.com/for-the-sheer-beauty-of-it-java-from-space/) - Let's for once leave politics and the perfidy of men behind, and revel in the beauty of the earth and the ingenuity of mankind. The photo of the volcanoes of East Java and beyond comes from the International Space Station, courtesy of NASA (and the US taxpayer). You can download a bigger version without the
- [Should Jakarta voters trust a cleric who takes money from Playboy?](http://indonesiaetc.com/should-jakarta-voters-trust-a-cleric-who-takes-money-from-playboy/) - On Wednesday, we saw once again that Indonesian voters are more grown up than the people they are voting for. Though the Jakarta elections were repeatedly presented as a test of strength of political Islam, I've always thought the white-robed mobs were more a throw-back to the everyday tactics of the Old Guard, as I
- [A TED talk about forgetting 1965, just when we need to remember it](http://indonesiaetc.com/a-ted-talk-about-forgetting-1965-just-when-we-need-to-remember-it/) - Two years ago, I gave this short TED Talk about imaginary husbands, telling lies, and the mass killings that slashed across Indonesia in 1965. I know many people will hate it, and will disagree most violently when I say that the long silence that followed the killings was probably a good thing. But we mustn't
- [Is Indonesia becoming a country of thugs and sycophants?](http://indonesiaetc.com/is-indonesia-becoming-a-country-of-thugs-and-sycophants/) - Though the common sense of most Indonesians gives me hope, I'm more disappointed than ever by politicians, who pander to thuggish interest groups, and technocrats, who can't seem to cope with honest criticism.
- [Apparently, 42% of young Indonesians are good for nothing](http://indonesiaetc.com/apparently-42-of-young-indonesians-are-good-for-nothing/) - It's PISA time again, when the competence of Indonesian 15 year-olds in science, maths and reading is compared with that of kids in other countries. They continue to under-perform quite shockingly -- over four in ten are functionally incompetent in all three areas. Other ASEAN neighbours, who can soon vie for jobs in the ASEAN Economic Community, are much better equipped.
- [Waiting for SBY](http://indonesiaetc.com/waiting-for-sby/) - The most common activity for any traveller in Indonesia is, without question, waiting around. One of the next most common activities is guessing WHY we're waiting around. Sometimes, the ferry captain forgets the waters are tidal and a ferry will get stranded on its belly for six or eight hours. Sometimes, one has to wait
- [Graffiti, Catholic style](http://indonesiaetc.com/graffiti-catholic-style/) - The Blessed Virgin Mary on a hill going out of Boawae, in Flores, made me homesick for the near-identical BVM outside the Priest's House in Castletownshend, the prettiest village in Ireland. (I wonder idly where they are produced. There's a smaller but otherwise also identical version in the garden of the guest house I'm staying
- [Indonesia is rubbish](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-is-rubbish/) - I'm always happy to see the Boys in Brown (in Indonesia that's the police) supporting a good cause. Right now, they've decided to take on what I think is the biggest blight on this gloriously haphazard nation. Not corruption (that would be a stretch for the police), not a bloated and ineffectual civil service (ditto),
- [Some travelling companions are just nicer than others](http://indonesiaetc.com/some-travelling-companions-are-just-nicer-than-others/) - I've just spent five days (and five nights) on the deck of a cargo ship travelling between Wini, in West Timor, and the Tanimbar Islands in southern Maluku. As in any five day period, there are good moments and bad. The bad would certainly include the hours when the lads sitting close to me, having
- [Indonesia gets investment status, but where's the investment?](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-gets-investment-status-but-wheres-the-investment/) - Indonesia starts the new year hopefully: it has been upgraded to investment status by one of the rating agencies. It's no huge surprise; rating agencies tend to think quite short term, and short term, the indicators look good. The Financial Times is enthusiastic about what it calls a "demographic dividend" i.e. lots of young people.
- [Cheating justice: the case of the teenage sandal thief](http://indonesiaetc.com/cheating-justice-the-case-of-the-teenage-sandal-thief/) - When Indonesians ask me what I find so special about their country, I often throw the question back at them. There's usually much head-scratching and no clear answer. So then I ask: OK, what do you think defines Indonesia, then? Again, rarely a clear answer. The other day, though, a random unemployed guy I met
- [Ceremonial confusion: personality, politics and parties in Indonesia's fiefdoms](http://indonesiaetc.com/ceremonial-confusion-personality-politics-and-parties-in-indonesias-fiefdoms/) - It's party season here in Weda, a newly-bustling town on the east coast of Halmahera island. There are parties and Parties, and the confusion of the two are a pretty good illustration of life in Indonesia's districts, which are often run very much as personal fiefdoms of the Bupati, or regent. The Bupati is the
- [The real bad guys: the confused world of mining](http://indonesiaetc.com/the-real-bad-guys-the-confused-world-of-mining/) - Drifting out of the world of HIV, I've been able to get away from the knee-jerk demonisation of Big Pharma (often by people who are only too happy to extend their lives by taking their Truvada as long as someone else pays for it). But I've re-discovered another Public Enemy Number 1: Big Mining. Just
- [Berry jelly: wobbly trademarks in Indonesia's phone market](http://indonesiaetc.com/berry-jelly-wobbly-trademarks-in-indonesias-phone-market/) - Indonesia is mobile-phone mad. People who live in villages with no phone coverage and no electricity all have mobile phones "in case I go to town". Motorbike taxis drivers, fishermen, primary school kids, trash-pickers -- all have mobile phones. I regularly get e-mails from sex workers "sent from my Blackberry". Indeed in the realm of
- [What drugs are they on? Madness in Indonesia's jails](http://indonesiaetc.com/what-drugs-are-they-on-madness-in-indonesias-jails/) - I spent Nyepi, the Hindu day of silence, in Bali. Things have quietened down a bit here, but earlier in the month prisoners in Kerobokan, the main jail, went on the rampage. Officially the riot was about overcrowding, though the trigger seems to have been some spat about drug dealing. It is old news that
- [Forbidden pleasures: What Elizabeth eats for tea](http://indonesiaetc.com/forbidden-pleasures-what-elizabeth-eats-for-tea/) - Indonesian food is varied and generally wonderful, though in out of the way spots like Pulau Banyak, off the West coast of Aceh, the choice for travelers is not extensive. I eat whatever is on offer on any given day at the one food stall in town -- usually indeterminate fish in a yellowish or
- [A sick system produces dumb doctors in Indonesia](http://indonesiaetc.com/a-sick-system-produces-dumb-doctors-in-indonesia/) - "Why don't you go to Penang/Singapore?" is the first thing most Indonesians say when they hear I don't have kids. Obviously childlessness must be fixed, and obviously it is far too important to be left to the Indonesian health system. I usually give people short shrift when they trash the health system here. I have
- [A requiem for Indonesia's national parks](http://indonesiaetc.com/a-requiem-for-indonesias-national-parks/) - The photo above is of a honey tree. The Orang Rimba, who have for centuries hunted and gathered their way around the forests of what is now the Sumatran province of Jambi, have been collecting honey from this tree for as long as anyone can remember. (If you squint, you might be able to see
- [Indonesia: a miracle despite itself](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-a-miracle-despite-itself/) - I'm nearing the end of the first (nine-month long) leg of my Indonesian Odyssey and I don't feel much closer to understanding the heart of this torturously complicated but endlessly fascinating nation. I've done my best to try and sum up some of my thoughts in the June issue of Prospect, one of UK's more
- [A healthier Indonesia: Up in smoke?](http://indonesiaetc.com/a-healthier-indonesia-up-in-smoke/) - It's a pleasure to meet people who are happy with their work. I met one such on Sunday. "Praise God, I can't complain. I've been in this business for 47 years, and it's allowed me to put four children through college." So said the gentlemen in the photo; his business is selling tobacco in the
- [Olympic diary: Proudly Indonesian?](http://indonesiaetc.com/olympic-diary-proudly-indonesian/) - The day before the Olympics began, I ate at a warung nasi Padang hidden at the end of a grubby corridor on the upper floor of a central London shopping mall. Opposite us, a canny Chinese stall-holder had stocked up on flags that visitors could buy to wave around in enthusiastic support of their athletes.
- [That sinking feeling: will Indonesia neglect her colonial gem?](http://indonesiaetc.com/that-sinking-feeling-will-indonesia-neglect-her-colonial-gem/) - Earlier this month, almost exactly a year after I started this Indonesian Odyssey, I finally set foot in Java. Except that I didn't quite. As I clambered off the boat at Semarang before dawn, my feet plunged in to water, calf-deep. Semarang is Java's third largest port; the Pelni boats were ranged four deep along
- [Indonesia doesn't give a fart for satire](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-doesnt-give-a-fart-for-satire/) - As I struggle to pin the gloriously frustrating realities of Indonesia to the page, friends ask: wouldn't it be easier to write the book as fiction? But as I look at the headlines that are churned out day after day: women must ride side-saddle on motorbikes, MPs will spend over half a million dollars travelling
- [What does it take to get Indonesia into the New York Times?](http://indonesiaetc.com/what-does-it-take-to-get-indonesia-into-the-new-york-times/) - In an average month, the world's fourth most populous nation makes it in to the major newspaper of the world's third most populous nation about three times. I know, because the New York Times has a very handy service that allows you to set up alerts; every time they run a story mentioning Indonesia, I
- [Can Indonesia do better than Obamacare?](http://indonesiaetc.com/can-indonesia-do-better-than-obamacare/) - So 2014 will be an exciting year for Indonesia. Mostly, of course, because of the elections. But also because, if things go well, a national health insurance scheme will be expanded to cover all Indonesians. It's an incredibly ambitious plan. But in a wonderful report on BBC radio by Claire Bolderson, Health Minister Nasfsiah Mboi
- [Java, inventive since the 10th century](http://indonesiaetc.com/java-inventive-since-the-10th-century/) - Wandering through the Southeast Asian galleries at New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art over Christmas, I was struck by the glory of the bronzes produced in Java more than 1,000 years ago. And of their prescience. This depiction of the Shakyamuni Buddha suggests that in 10th Century Java, the Gods were already playing with their
- [Why won't my Indonesian friends watch The Act of Killing?](http://indonesiaetc.com/why-wont-my-indonesian-friends-watch-the-act-of-killing/) - It's easy to be snobby about the Oscars, but just sometimes, they put a spotlight on a film that deserves, indeed demands, to be more widely watched. The Act of Killing, for example, which has just been nominated for Best Documentary. If you are interested in how societies process their own history of mass murder,
- [The democratic dividend: Trickle-down corruption in Indonesian elections](http://indonesiaetc.com/the-democratic-dividend-trickle-down-corruption-in-indonesian-elections/) - Indonesian Presidential candidate Gita Wirjawan is talking up the "democratic dividend". It's a pun on the "demographic dividend" so beloved of the foreign analysts who write hubristic reports about Indonesia's glorious future. This particularly laughable example from McKinsey, mostly based on interviews the then Trade Minister Mr. Wirjawan and his like, pimped the wonders of Indonesia's demographic dividend just a few months before the economy (and the rupiah) went into a nosedive....
- [Can a movie cure blindness? Jalanan reveals urban poverty](http://indonesiaetc.com/can-a-movie-cure-blindness-jalanan-reveals-urban-poverty/) - I got an e-mail today from film-maker extraordinaire Daniel Ziv. His documentary Jalanan, about street musicians and urban poverty in Jakarta, has been playing to great acclaim around the world, noticed by publications such as The Economist and the Wall Street Journal, that tend to devote more column inches to the winners of Indonesia's erratic
- [Is Twitter a substitute for activism, or a platform for corruption?](http://indonesiaetc.com/is-twitter-a-substitute-for-activism-or-a-platform-for-corruption/) - Having spent plenty of time observing corruption first-hand in Indonesia, I've recently started to read more about what the boffins say. By boffins, I mean institutions such as the World Bank who write prescriptions for countries sick with corruption, and the academics who analyse such prescriptions and point out why they don't cure the patient.
- [My dynasty's bigger than your dynasty: Indonesia beats the US at patronage politics](http://indonesiaetc.com/my-dynastys-bigger-than-your-dynasty-indonesia-beats-the-us-at-patronage-politics/) - Earlier this year, Indonesia’s national parliament passed a law that tried to curb dynastic succession in politics. This was frankly a little surprising. The chairwoman of the largest party in parliament, Megawati Sukarnoputri, is the daughter of Indonesia's first president. Though she never did manage to get elected herself, Megawati did spend some time in
- [Less touring, more studying would serve Indonesian politicians well](http://indonesiaetc.com/less-touring-more-studying-would-serve-indonesian-politicians-well/) - Trying to cut words from a headline? Replace "study tour" with "junket". Most Indonesians think of study tours, or "studi banding" as a politician's way of going on an overseas holiday at the taxpayers' expense. There are exceptions, of course. Over a decade ago, I took the then vice-governor of Papua province, Konstan Karma, to
- [How well is Indonesia managing its differences?](http://indonesiaetc.com/how-well-is-indonesia-managing-its-differences/) - Anies Baswedan made me proud when told Europeans how well Indonesia manages cultural differences. Then I heard news of the church burnings in Aceh.
- [High drama in the Indonesian Theatre State](http://indonesiaetc.com/high-drama-in-the-indonesian-theatre-state/) - As Indonesian citizens take over the Theatre State of old, the parliamentary stage readies for the biggest corruption scandal to date.
- [Ageing Indonesia: wiser or just grumpier?](http://indonesiaetc.com/ageing-indonesia-wiser-or-just-grumpier/) - Indonesia turns 71 today. Like many septuagenarians, the country appears to be growing more grumpy and intolerant as it ages. This week, the Economist picks up on an apparently rising tide of homophobia in Indonesia. Importantly, the paper also picked up on the fact that the grumpiness is partly motivated by politics: "Politics, as much
- [Health insurance Etc.: Indonesia's improbable success](http://indonesiaetc.com/health-insurance-etc-indonesias-improbable-success/) - Since its very inception, Indonesia has been given to committing itself to unlikely projects with virtually no preparation. Nationhood, for example (1945). Rice self-sufficiency (1970). Dramatic decentralisation (1999). Most recently, in 2014, universal health coverage. By 2019, it was summarily declared, all Indonesians would be included in a single national health insurance scheme. All of
- [Ignoring Indonesia: What you can't say in The Guardian (Updated)](http://indonesiaetc.com/what-you-cant-say-in-the-guardian/) - Earlier this month, tens of thousands of white-robed protesters stomped through the streets of Jakarta, baying for the blood of Jakarta governor Basuki Tjahaja Purnama, aka Ahok. To simplify a complex story, Ahok stood accused of the sin of quoting the Quran while being Christian. In the best Indonesian tradition of rent-a-crowd politics, many of
- [Bouncing back](http://indonesiaetc.com/bouncing-back/) - Having been very rude about the Indonesian educational system in an earlier post, I offer up this example of genius from a junior high school teacher in the small town of Singkil, in Aceh province. It was his labour-saving solution to the fact that his baby cried unless it was being rocked constantly. I might
- [Could this blog post land me in jail?](http://indonesiaetc.com/could-this-blog-post-land-me-in-jail/) - As Indonesia's government continues to propose new restrictions on freedom of expression, blog posts like this one could soon lead to jail.
- [Castration: another knee-jerk 'solution' from Jokowi](http://indonesiaetc.com/castration-another-knee-jerk-solution-from-jokowi/) - Indonesia's president had rushed out a knee-jerk response to the gang rape of a 14 year-old girl: chemical castration and even death for perpetrators. But what's needed is more thoughtful structural reforms that might reduce violence while protecting and helping victims.
- [Why are Indonesian politicians such slow learners?](http://indonesiaetc.com/why-are-indonesian-politicians-such-slow-learners/) - Gay-bashing is the latest fashion among Indonesian politicians. It proves they are very slow learners: Indonesians do not tend to re-elect intolerant politicians.
- [Indonesia is 70: Many happy Etc.s](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-is-70-many-happy-etc-s/) - Seventy years ago today, Sukarno and Mohmmad Hatta were frog-marched to a radio station by students hungry for independence. There, they declared the formation of the republic of Indonesia. Both the text and its original presentation in Sukarno's handwriting (pictured above, rescued from the waste-paper basket) tell us much about the country.
- [Too much testosterone: can women save Indonesia?](http://indonesiaetc.com/too-much-testosterone-can-women-save-indonesia/) - Indonesian President Joko Widodo has appointed an all-female panel to select the next anti-corruption commissioners. While some think this is a sign that women are gaining political power in Indonesia. I argue that the panel will probably do a good job precisely because women are generally marginalised, and therefore less likely to be woven into networks of patronage and corruption.
- [Indonesia gets noticed (not in a good way)](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-gets-noticed-not-in-a-good-way/) - Several times over the last months, I've been asked to comment on the impending execution of convicted drug dealers. I've always refused, largely because I thought I'd just be fuelling hysteria about something that wasn't actually going to happen. Then, just a few minutes before I was about to speak on a panel called "Death
- [Indonesia's alcohol ban makes me thirsty. Come drink in Brussels, LA, London](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesias-alcohol-ban-makes-me-thirsty-come-drink-in-brussels-la-london/) - Starting last week, Indonesia banned the sale of beer in convenience stores. (It's the first time since the tsunami that I remember "Muslim-majority Indonesia" making it into the Daily Mail.) Worse still, parliament is proposing to jail people for up to two years for drinking alcohol. Despite ministerial assurances that this is unlikely to happen,
- [Whose word counts? A hierarchy of Indonesian justice](http://indonesiaetc.com/whose-word-counts-a-hierarchy-of-indonesian-justice/) - In colonial times, there were different laws for different people in Indonesia. Seventy years after independence, it looks as if that's still the case. In the last week, a woman has been jailed because in a private Facebook chat she told a friend that her husband was abusing her. Her husband, snooping around in her private correspondence (itself a pretty good indicator of abuse) found the comments and reported his wife to the police. Then two teachers, one a foreigner, were jailed for 10 years on the evidence of a six year-old who accused them of using a magic stone conjured from thin air to lessen the pain of sexual abuse.
- [The truth about Indonesia? See for yourself: Free multimedia eBook taster](http://indonesiaetc.com/the-truth-about-indonesia-see-for-yourself-free-multimedia-ebook-taster/) - There's nothing Indonesians love better than a success story involving their compatriots. When Indonesian schoolkids scraped the bottom of the international league tables in maths and science, many were quick to point out that this sample of several thousand could not be representative, because, well, look, we did well in the Wizards at Mathematics International Competition in Lucknow. So the national media was all a-flutter recently to learn that an Indonesian kid was captain of Real Madrid's under 15 team. Despite their wild enthusiasm for football, Indonesians don't exactly excel in international competition in the sport, so the news was doubly welcome. Too good to be true, almost....
- [Room to rent in lovely Georgian house in Stoke Newington](http://indonesiaetc.com/room-to-rent-in-lovely-georgian-house-in-stoke-newington/) - Click each image on this page for a larger view Know anyone cheerful and considerate who's looking for a fabulous flat-share in London? I'm looking for someone to share my large, two-bedroom Georgian flat in Stoke Newington (the grown-up side of Dalston). The house is fully (and I think beautifully) furnished. There's a
- [Bad language is bad for Indonesian business](http://indonesiaetc.com/bad-language-is-bad-for-indonesian-business/) - Indonesian bureaucrats are making it harder for Indonesians to learn good English. This handicaps Indonesian firms, as well as making them look foolish in international markets.
- [Jokowi needs to learn the difference between popular and populist](http://indonesiaetc.com/jokowi-needs-to-learn-the-difference-between-popular-and-populist/) - An analysis of Indonesian President Joko Widodo's first 100 days in power. Jokowi's attempts to restore himself in the eyes of the public after several political blunders have led to some very poor policy-making.
- [From Indonesia's Department of You Couldn't Make It Up](http://indonesiaetc.com/from-indonesias-department-of-you-couldnt-make-it-up/) - The department of You Couldn't Make It Up has been working overtime in Indonesia lately. Parliament has just confirmed a notorious corruption suspect to head the police, and the President thinks he can make fishermen richer by sinking ships.
- [Indonesia Etc. enhanced eBook is out now!](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-etc-enhanced-ebook-is-out-now-in-some-places/) - Indonesia is one of the most visually compelling countries in the world: blue flames leap out of the side of sulphurous volcanoes, scarlet blood splatters into the dust between megalithic tombstones, the silvery eye of a giant tuna fish reflects the shining sea. In Indonesia Etc: Exploring the Improbable Nation, I have tried to capture
- [Medicine man: a market education](http://indonesiaetc.com/medicine-man-a-market-education/) - Last year, the Wellcome Collection in London had a glorious exhibition of anatomical models, called Exquisite Bodies. They were accompanied by banners from the fairs and markets where these models used to be shown. In the prudish Victorian age, they were often the only glimpse people got of naked bodies other than their own. Part
- [The essentials of life: handphones where there's no power](http://indonesiaetc.com/the-essentials-of-life-handphones-where-theres-no-power/) - Just a couple of years ago, it was a source of wonder: "Wah! In Indonesia, even the hookers/farmers/becak drivers have cell-phones!" The citified loved to take photos of small buffalo-riding Javanese children or half-naked Papuan adults busily chatting on their cell-phones (HP, or "hah pay" in Indonesian, from the English Hand Phone). Now, cell-phones are
- [Motorised transportation...](http://indonesiaetc.com/motorised-transportation/) - ...takes a front seat in some of Indonesia's smaller islands.
- [A comfortable T-shirt culture](http://indonesiaetc.com/a-comfortable-t-shirt-culture/) - If I had the courage to stick my camera into people's chests, I'd by now have a vast repertoire of photos of absurd and inappropriate T-shirts. Pretty young school-girls sporting obscenities that would make a punk blush. Elderly crones decked in gyrating boy-band idols. Moslem clerics declaring their love for Jesus. And plenty of slogans
- [Rubber time: new departures for an old concept](http://indonesiaetc.com/rubber-time-new-departures-for-an-old-concept/) - Many of you will be familiar with Indonesia's approach to timekeeping, affectionately known as "rubber time". Like rubber (and the patience of many Indonesians), it can be stretched almost infinitely. Unlike rubber, it tends only to stretch in one direction. Buses start filling up on a notional schedule but don't leave until they are full;
- [Indonesian President  signs off on semen](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesian-president-signs-off-on-semen/) - In the windswept west of Ireland, I'm struggling with notebooks written in "Bahasa Gado Gado" -- a mixture of English and Indonesian which at times catches me by surprise. This bit, for example: "Local rich people count their capital in hewan, dan dengan ratusan ekor pun tidak bisa beli semen". Which translates as: "Local rich
- [Vocab lessons for expat lawyers in Indonesia](http://indonesiaetc.com/vocab-lessons-for-expat-lawyers-in-indonesia/) - So Indonesia is going to require expatriate lawyers to take an ethics test, in Indonesian. I think this is a splendid idea; though they are not actually allowed to practice law in Indonesia, foreigners certainly have a lot to learn from Indonesian lawyers when it comes to ethics. Here's some essential vocab to get them
- [Truant teachers make for stupid vandals](http://indonesiaetc.com/truant-teachers-make-for-stupid-vandals/) - In theory, every child in Indonesia gets at least three years of English teaching in primary school, and several years more in middle and secondary school. So it's initially surprising that the majority of Indonesian kids can manage nothing more than "Hello Mister!", and the occasional "wossyonem?" Perhaps more surprising still that so many seem to aspire to English language graffiti....
- [Indonesian kids don't know how stupid they are](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesian-kids-dont-know-how-stupid-they-are/) - Every three years, Indonesia's education system goes through the ritual humiliation of the PISA tests, comparing the performance of 15 year-olds in 65 countries in reading, maths and science. Indonesia has more teachers per student than most much richer countries, and an amendment to the constitution guarantees that 20 percent of the national budget is spent on education. And yet the 2012 PISA results, released this week, show that Indonesia ranked at the bottom of the heap in maths and science, and did only marginally better in reading....
- [Another inflamatory headline: A nation of dunces?](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-a-nation-of-dunces/) - Many people took offence at the title of my earlier post about Indonesia's appalling performance in maths and science in the internationally standardised PISA test. Those who also read the article rightly pointed out that the headline, which called Indonesian students "stupid", did not match the contents of the post, which was about the failure
- [Note to Papuan politicians: Democracy is for grown-ups](http://indonesiaetc.com/note-to-papuan-politicians-democracy-is-for-grown-ups/) - When a senior Papuan politician said recently that Papua was not ready for democracy I was mildly shocked. “The people are not mature yet, neither are the political elite. They are not ready to accept defeat, which results in them resorting to violence. Organizers of elections in the regencies are terrorized and intimidated. People are
- [The Great Divide: inequity on Indonesia's highways](http://indonesiaetc.com/the-great-divide-inequity-on-indonesias-highways/) - After many months on the high seas and highways of Indonesia I've finally made it into the Javanese heartland, and I'm in shock. The cause of my shock is, principally, shock absorbers: those things that I had assumed had been rattled out of every bus in the archipelago....
- [The bottom line for decentralisation in Indonesia](http://indonesiaetc.com/the-bottom-line-for-decentralisation-in-indonesia/) - Despite various moratoria imposed by an ineffectual central government, the Indonesian decentralisation Hydra continues to grow new heads. We've got a 34th province now officially on the books (Kalimantan Utara), and the tally of kabupaten/ kota has nudged over the 500 mark....
- [And the other 215 million Indonesians?](http://indonesiaetc.com/and-the-other-215-million-indonesians/) - 2014 seems to have begun with a burst of excitement about "Indonesia" in the foreign media. BBC Radio 4 this morning ran an excellent analysis of the country's prospects by economist Jim O'Neill, the bloke that invented the term BRICS to describe the boom economies of the 2000s. He proposes the MINTs for the 2010s
- [What's wrong with Indonesian penises?](http://indonesiaetc.com/whats-wrong-with-indonesian-penises/) - Reading the newspapers in cities across Papua, I cannot help but notice the full-colour ads for penis extensions. In only half an hour, with no invasive anything, men can see their organs grow, thicken, harden, for ever. The ads are explicit about the results, down to the last half centimetre; clients can choose both the
- [Is having sex safer than going to work?](http://indonesiaetc.com/is-having-sex-safer-than-going-to-work/) - As part of the Makassar Writers' Festival, I've been asked to give a talk about HIV in Indonesia at the faculty of public health at Hasanuddin University. I'm reluctant. I've been wandering Indonesia without any thought of focusing on HIV for over eight months now. In that time I've met a surprising number of widows,
- ["The minister is shocked" shock](http://indonesiaetc.com/the-minister-is-shocked-shock/) - The always provocative Unspun asks how it is that Indonesia's minister of health is shocked at the country's HIV prevention failure. It's a good question, most especially since before becoming minister just a few months ago, Nafsiah Mboi spent six years at the helm of the National AIDS Commission. The failure was highlighted in the
- [Indonesia's gone Gaga: Lessons in democracy](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesias-gone-gaga-lessons-in-democracy/) - I don't like going to the dentist; I'm capable of inventing all sorts of the-dog-ate-my-homework excuses for my inevitable last-minute foot-dragging. But as is so often the case, Indonesia's reality outstrips my imagination. As I rocked up late for my regular check-up yesterday, I was able to lay the blame at the Satanically clad feet
- [A tale of two stereotypes: Chinese Indonesians at work](http://indonesiaetc.com/a-tales-of-two-stereotypes-chinese-indonesians-at-work/) - [table id=10 /] I arrived back in Indonesia just in time to see Jakarta vote for its Governor. It's not a small job, wrestling some sanity into a city that crushes nine million official souls into its alleys, backstreets and blossoming apartment complexes, swelling to nearly 18 million on work days. The election was hotly
- [The FPI is (half) right: they must be more responsible thugs](http://indonesiaetc.com/the-fpi-is-half-right-they-must-be-more-responsible-thugs/) - With a first draft of Indonesia Etc: Exploring the Improbable Nation now sitting on my editor's desk, I finally have time to get back to musing on this blog about Indonesia's delights and contradictions. In writing the book, I've had a lot of time to think about the way language and culture mirror one another.
- [More Moslem than expected: the real surprise of Indonesia's polls](http://indonesiaetc.com/more-moslem-than-expected-the-real-surprise-of-indonesias-polls/) - Commentators on Indonesia's parliamentary elections have been surprised by the relatively poor performance of front-runners PDIP (see the FT, the Jakarta Post, the Jakarta Globe for examples). But the real surprise is surely the much better than expected showing by Islamic parties. Islamic parties have seen their share of the vote slide steadily over the
- [Has Jokowi gone mental?](http://indonesiaetc.com/has-jokowi-gone-mental/) - In a stirring editorial published in Kompas on Saturday, leading Indonesian presidential candidate Joko Widodo (aka Jokowi) demands a mental revolution. (English summaries here and here.)
- [In praise of Endang: A gem among Indonesian doctors](http://indonesiaetc.com/in-praise-of-endang-a-gem-among-indonesian-doctors/) - Wednesday was a sad day for Indonesia. and for me. It marked the death of Endang Sedyaningsih, who encompassed what is best in the women in this great country: courage, determination, integrity, compassion and humility. It is a rare combination at the best of times; in the Indonesian cabinet, where Endang held the position of Minister of Health, these qualities are nothing short of exceptional.
- [The drill in Aceh: whipping up support](http://indonesiaetc.com/the-drill-in-aceh-whipping-up-support/) - I happen to be in Aceh for the local elections. These are interesting times, with rivalries between former comrades in the para-political movement formerly known as GAM hotting up. It's a sensitive topic in a still-fragile part of this increasingly centrifugal nation; I'd say a lot more, but I have promised the Indonesian intelligence services
- [Welcome to IndonesiaEtc.com, continuing the Portrait Indonesia journey](http://indonesiaetc.com/welcome-to-indonesiaetc-com-the-new-portraitindonesia/) - Welcome to Indonesia etc, the new face of Portrait Indonesia. It's over two years since Portrait Indonesia went on the road. Portrait went quiet for several months as I hunched down over a computer, trying to pin Indonesia's riotous diversity to the page. The book that will emerge in June 2014 will be called Indonesia
- [Indonesia's antibiotic resistance mystery solved](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesias-antibiotic-resistance-mystery-solved/) - Some years ago, when I was working on HIV prevention in Indonesia, we diligently treated sex workers for common infections such as gonorrhea and chlamydia, using national treatment guidelines. They were not cured. After much head-scratching, we sent some samples off for resistance testing. The results were pretty shocking. We found that 100% of our
- [Better politics is the only medicine for Indonesia's health system](http://indonesiaetc.com/better-politics-is-the-only-medicine-for-indonesias-health-system/) - The picture above was taken in Lombok, in what I thought was an abandoned health centre. There was a little lab, a couple of consulting rooms, a dispensary, all mouldering with neglect. But on a door to a room in the back yard I saw a sign "The midwife is IN". I knocked on the
- [Prabowo or Jokowi: does it really matter?](http://indonesiaetc.com/prabowo-or-jokowi-does-it-really-matter/) - With two televised debates down and three to go, opinion is divided on which of Indonesia's two presidential candidates is looking most, well, presidential.....
- [Let the cow-trading begin!](http://indonesiaetc.com/let-the-cow-trading-begin/) - Well, it's official. Over 133 million Indonesians cast their votes peacefully, had them counted repeatedly and now have a new president elect. Congratulations to Indonesians for staying unflustered in the face of Prabowo Subianto's schoolboy tantrums....
- [What's a man without his weapon?](http://indonesiaetc.com/whats-a-man-without-his-weapon/) - "Like throwing salt into the sea" : an Indonesian expression for futile activity. Called to mind by this banner at the airport in West Sumba. "Stop Violence!" proclaims the banner. It reminds us that, under a 1951 law, we can be jailed for 10 years for carrying sharp weapons without a permit. On the right of the banner, an illustration of some of the sharp weapons in question.
- [HIV prevention, Indonesian style: stay away from blondes](http://indonesiaetc.com/hiv-prevention-indonesian-style-stay-away-from-blondes/) - I have a collection of daft AIDS posters going back years, but I'm glad to say they are getting harder to find. This one, in Saumlaki, the main town in the remote Tanimbar islands, was thus a great find....
- [Headhunters stand up against religious thuggery](http://indonesiaetc.com/headhunters-stand-up-against-religious-thuggery/) - One of the mysteries of life in Indonesia is how the government and the security forces allow absolute chaos, sometimes even mass murder, to develop in totally predictable ways. As groups such as the Islamic Defenders Front (Front Pembela Islam or FPI in Indonesian) move around the country beating up hookers and inciting violence against non-Moslems, the President and his ministers play Three Monkeys -- see no evil, hear no evil, and therefore never have to speak about any evil. ...
- [Slideshow: Indonesia is rubbish](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-indonesia-is-rubbish/) - Indonesia has a difficult relationship with garbage and recycling.
- [Slideshow: Sinking Semarang](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-sinking-semarang/) - Semarang, a colonial Dutch city, is slowly sinking.
- [Slideshow: A Tale of two cities](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-a-tale-of-two-cities/) - Polling stations in Menteng and Tanah Tinggi
- [Slideshow: Beautiful batik](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-beautiful-batik/) - The methods and tools for making batik are exquisitely evolved.
- [Slideshow: Our beloved army](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-our-beloved-army/) - Murals and sculptures celebrate the Army.
- [Slideshow: Life in the Longhouse](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-life-in-the-longhouse/) - Life in a Dayak longhouse.
- [Slideshow: The Rimba - Nomads of the plantation](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-the-rimba-nomads-of-the-plantation/) - The Rimba welcome Elizabeth to the jungle. And build her a house.
- [Slideshow: Tangse then and now](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-tangse-then-and-now/) - Tangse has changed. But only so much.
- [Slideshow: Infrastructure in Indonesia](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-infrastructure-in-indonesia/) - Indonesia's infrastructure faces many challenges.
- [Slideshow: Aceh elections](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-aceh-elections/) - Aceh elections.
- [Slideshow: Asphalt aspirations](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-asphalt-aspirations/) - Road building is difficult wherever you are. In Indonesia there are even more challenges.
- [Slideshow: The wrath of the land](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-the-wrath-of-the-land/) - Parts of Indonesia are on the Pacific "Ring of Fire". Living near volcanoes can be hazardous.
- [Slideshow: Water World in Banggai](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-water-world-in-banggai/) - The people of Banggai live in house constructed on stilts. Sometimes they move the whole house.
- [Aceh's new leaders: Militantly religious?](http://indonesiaetc.com/acehs-new-leaders-militantly-religious/) - Well it's official. The Partai Aceh candidates for Governor and Vice Governor will rule Indonesia's most fractious province for the next five years. Their election campaign was a strange mix of proto-militarism and religious fervour.
- [Indonesia vs the UK: who's more cosmopolitain?](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-vs-the-uk-whos-more-cosmopolitain/) - Dari mana? Where are you from? It's the first question most rural Indonesians ask. To simplify things, I just say England. Twenty years ago, there was only one response: Wah! Inggris! Lady Di! Now, there are two: Wah! Inggris! David Beckham! and Wah! Inggris! Manchester United!
- [Now Indonesia's democracy really is in danger](http://indonesiaetc.com/now-indonesias-democracy-really-is-in-danger/) - When Joko Widodo was confirmed as Indonesia's new president by the Constitutional Court late last month, there was a collective sigh of relief. Indonesians could, at least for a few years, stop worrying about a major threat to their democracy.* Not so fast. Parliament is currently discussing whipping away Indonesian's right to elect the people who have the greatest impact on the daily lives of citizens: their mayors or district heads (walikota/bupati). The suggestion is to go back to the system in place before 2005, when district heads were appointed by the local parliament....
- [Indonesian infrastructure: Paved with good intentions?](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesian-infrastructure-paved-with-good-intentions/) - Asphalt. It's not something I've ever given much thought to, except to wish there were more of it under the wheels of my car (Kenya) or motorbike (Indonesia). But now I'm in Buton, the island in Southeast Sulawesi which is one of the world's largest suppliers of the stuff of which dream highways are made, so I thought I'd go and see an asphalt mine...
- [Credit where credit is not due](http://indonesiaetc.com/credit-where-credit-is-not-due/) - You can tell a lot about a country from the sort of junk mail it circulates. Or, in the case of Indonesia, junk SMSs. Travelling in areas where a particular tree is designated as a "pohon senyal" or "signal tree" (hold on to the tree and you might just get enough of a signal of your phone to send a text or even make a call) I get quite excited if my phone beeps...
- [What's the score with Indonesian education?](http://indonesiaetc.com/whats-the-score-with-indonesian-education/) - The first thing any Indonesian asks a stray foreigner, before they even get to age, marital status or the product of one's ovaries, is: "Dari mana?" Where are you from? And the first thing they say when I say "England" is: "Wah! Manchester United!" (Occasional variant: "Wah! David Beckham!")...
- [A whale of a time in Eastern Indonesia](http://indonesiaetc.com/a-whale-of-a-time-in-eastern-indonesia/) - I've just spent a few days hunting whales in Lamalera, on the eastern end of Lembata island, off Flores. We didn't have much luck, but last week, there was something of an end-of-season bonanza: in rickety wooden boats and using only long bamboo harpoons with rusty metal tips, the lads of Lamalera (and they are definitely Lads) brought in six whales. They get hacked up on the beach, which is littered still with spines and skulls....
- [Slideshow: Politician's Palaces: Bupati's offices around Indonesia](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-politicians-palaces-bupatis-offices-around-indonesia/) - Each District must outdo the next, no matter the cost.
- [Slideshow - Markets of Indonesia - The Market Rules](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-markets-of-indonesia-the-market-rules/) - Turtle eggs, medicines, woks, spices, crabs - you can find them all in the markets of Indonesia.
- [Slideshow: Last week's whale hunt](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-last-weeks-whale-hunt/) - Whale hunting in Lamalera
- [Slideshow: The National Sport](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-the-national-sport/) - "In Indonesia, time is sleep"
- [Slideshow: Mama Lina's Family](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-mama-linas-family/) - On the island of Adonara, Mama Lina's family showed Indonesia's typical hospitality.
- [Slideshow: Itinerant Vendors](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-itinerant-vendors/) - Can't get to the shops? The shops will come to you!
- [Slideshow: Barbie Factory](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-barbie-factory/) - A Barbie factory illustrates some of Indonesia's wonderful contradictions.
- [Rediscovering Sumba (and a working slideshow)](http://indonesiaetc.com/rediscovering-sumba-and-a-working-slideshow/) - I was first invited to take tea with a corpse in Sumba, in southeastern Indonesia, some 23 years ago. It was also in 1991 that I first attended a pasola, a wonderful jousting match which aims to secure a good harvest by spilling human blood. During that visit to Sumba, my friend Enny and I both photographed a boy wearing primary school uniform shorts and the head-dress of a jouster. He was too young to go riding out, but his “don’t mess with me” look advertised his intention to become a warrior to be feared....
- [An easter treat: Catholic kitsch from around Indonesia](http://indonesiaetc.com/an-easter-treat-catholic-kitsch-from-around-indonesia/) - There are just seven million Catholics in Indonesia, but all of them seem to love High Kitsch. Some examples in this slideshow.
- [Indonesian art lives, though not in overseas museums](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesian-art-lives-though-not-in-overseas-museums/) - Unless they are credited to someone else, most of the images in these blog posts are photos I took myself and let’s face it, they don’t really do justice to the visual glories of Indonesia’s many cultures. So I was delighted to learn that the Asian branch of the Smithsonian museum, the Freer/Sackler galleries, have made images of the objects in their collection available for non-commercial use....
- [Slideshow: The Sultan's coronation, 1989](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshow-the-sultans-coronation-1989/) - Dwarves, albinos, albino dwarves, and colonial headwear are all part of this 1989 ceremony to mark a Sultan's Coronation.
- [Best Books 2014 lists underline Indonesia (Etc.)'s diversity](http://indonesiaetc.com/best-books-2014-lists-underline-indonesia-etc-s-diversity/) - Forgive this brief post from the Department of Self Promotion, but I can't help being a little pleased that The Economist, the Wall Street Journal and the lovely Longitude books have picked Indonesia Etc. as one of the best books of 2014. I'm thrilled, too, that I'll get to talk about Indonesia at the glorious
- [Take the Money Politics and run](http://indonesiaetc.com/take-the-money-politics-and-run/) - It's local election season in many areas of Indonesia. That means posters of well-fed used car salesmen promising vaguely to fight corruption and enrich the "rakyat", the majority of Indonesians who live from day to day or month to month. It also means that towns and villages are filled with "Tim Sukses" -- swarms of volunteers who try to get the vote out for their candidate, often with the help of envelopes of cash.
- [Undermining Indonesian democracy: last gasp, or a sign of things to come?](http://indonesiaetc.com/undermining-indonesian-democracy-last-gasp-or-a-sign-of-things-to-come/) - So it has happened: Indonesia's democracy has been undermined by the nation's elected representatives. When I wrote a fortnight ago about the threat posed by parliament's discussion of the local election bill, I was still hopeful. In a month of travel in Eastern Indonesia
- [Jokowi's first task: undermine dynasty politics](http://indonesiaetc.com/jokowis-first-task-undermine-dynasty-politics/) - Tomorrow ushers in a new era for Indonesian politics. For the first time since 1957, when then president Sukarno did away with parliamentary democracy, the country will have an executive and a legislature that have different loyalties. But for the first time, too, there may be a chance of amputating the ageing hands that have so leadenly guided the nation's political parties for the past decade and a half.
- [In the name of God [bad things happen]](http://indonesiaetc.com/in-the-name-of-god-bad-things-happen/) - Does it matter to the police what religion I profess? Or to the people who are processing health insurance cards, or to the airline staff checking that I match the name on my ticket? Yes it does, is the implication of Indonesia's rule that a citizen's religion must be stipulated on their ID card.
- [Indonesia today: No adult supervision](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-today-no-adult-supervision/) - Watching Indonesia from far away through the filter of the Twittering classes and foreign news coverage, it's hard not to be mildly despairing that new president Joko Widodo's promise of a Mental Revolution has melted so quickly back into playground politics.
- [Is corruption really such a bad thing?](http://indonesiaetc.com/is-corruption-really-such-a-bad-thing/) - Today was International Anti-Corruption Day. Staff of Surabaya's prosecutor’s office gave out stickers that read: "Don’t feed your family on dirty money” and the boss of Indonesia's national airline Garuda promised to show anti-corruption films on all flights. Meanwhile, the world was presented with a lot of fuzzy claims about what corruption does, though very little clarity about what it is.
- [Albinos, dwarves and royalty: the magic of Java](http://indonesiaetc.com/albinos-dwarves-and-royalty-the-magic-of-java/) - Last month was the 15th anniversary of the coronation of the Sultan of Yogyakarta; here's a belated tribute. I covered the coronation for Reuters in Indonesia, accompanied by the fabulous photographer Enny Nuraheni. Here are some of her pictures, rescued from the trash. The dwarves, albinos and albino dwarves that the Sultan keeps at court
- [Where have all the oknum gone?](http://indonesiaetc.com/where-have-all-the-oknum-gone/) - A couple of weeks ago, the weekly news magazine Tempo devoted several pages to a story about cops being involved in an on-line gambling ring; there was an editorial about the scandal, too, and it surprised me. The subject matter -- crooked cops -- was not remotely unexpected. What tripped me up was the language.
- [Indonesia Etc: lessons for Scotland](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-etc-lessons-for-scotland/) - Sixty-nine years ago today, Sukarno and Mohammad Hatta blurted out the two sentences that gave Indonesia its independence (and my book its title): ‘We, the people of Indonesia, hereby declare the independence of Indonesia. Matters relating to the transfer of power etc. will be executed carefully and as soon as possible.’ I had cause to
- [Things to do before you turn 50](http://indonesiaetc.com/things-to-do-before-you-turn-50/) - What to do on the beautiful summer afternoon before your 50th birthday? Learn something new, obviously. I chose trapeze flying. I could draw comparisons between this exhilarating leap into nothingness and Indonesian politics in its current phase of and heady uncertainty, but I think I'll just let it swing.
- [Generous Granta: Indonesia Etc ebook for (almost) free ](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-etc-ebook-for-almost-free/) - Lovely Granta, who publish Indonesia Etc. in the UK, Australia and many Commonwealth countries, have generously agreed to try a new experiment: they are making the e-book available for next to nothing to people who have already bought the hardback. If you own a smartphone and physical copy of Indonesia Etc that has the cover
- [Keep calm, Indonesia. But not too calm.](http://indonesiaetc.com/keep-calm-indonesia-but-not-too-calm/) - "Indonesians are not idiots!" I proclaimed in my final post before the election, waxing lyrical about the common sense of the Indonesian electorate. They wouldn't, I predicted, be swayed by Prabowo Subianto's bluster. By election day I was getting very nervous indeed. Then the Quick Count results came through. "I told you so" is never
- [[I really hope] Indonesians are not idiots](http://indonesiaetc.com/i-really-hope-indonesians-are-not-idiots/) - Originally written for New Mandala under the title "Indonesians are not idiots". Interesting comments @ the original post. As Prabowo Subianto's messianic nationalism chomps through rival presidential candidate Joko Widodo's once-unassailable lead in Indonesia's opinion polls, New Mandala and other fora have flared with concern. Prabowo is a thug, they say (though a lot more
- [ Department of Self-Promotion: The Economist loves Indonesia Etc!](http://indonesiaetc.com/the-economist-loves-indonesia-etc/) - [table id=19/] Update: So does Simon Winchester (writing in the Wall Street Journal) — "...a spectacular achievement and one of the very best travel books I have read.." Pallavi Aiyar, in The LA Review of Books — "I found myself nearly trembling with excitement...I was finally holding in my hands that elusive Indonesia book: a
- [Test-drive the Indonesia Etc enhanced e-book (for free!)](http://indonesiaetc.com/test-drive-the-indonesia-etc-enhanced-e-book-for-free/) - The big, solid, heavy-in-the-hand, proud-on-the-bookshelf hardback version of Indonesia Etc will be out in less than a month in the UK and Asia, six weeks in the US. But I've spent the last few months working on something that I think is at least as exciting: an electronic version of the text, which also has
- [Not-quite remembering Tiananmen Square](http://indonesiaetc.com/not-quite-remembering-tiananmen-square/) - Late last night, one of the many friends who helped me celebrate the launch of Indonesia Etc reminded me of where he and I had been at exactly that hour 25 years earlier. We were both Reuters reporters at the time; Andy Roche was being banged up by Chinese cops in the backstreets not far
- [Extraordinary Indonesians: Menuk Suwondo remembered](http://indonesiaetc.com/extraordinary-indonesians-menuk-suwondo-remembered/) - After what seems like a loooooong gestation, Indonesia Etc. is finally born today (at least in the UK; the US and Indonesian triplets will follow very shortly). When I got my first copy of Indonesia Etc from Granta a couple of weeks ago, I took it straight to the post office and sent it to
- [Hey, HSBC! In the future, Bali will be part of Indonesia](http://indonesiaetc.com/hey-hsbc-in-the-future-bali-will-be-part-of-indonesia/) - The World's Local Bank (and Asia's biggest) apparently can't afford an Atlas. HT: Calire Bolderson, Sophy Ridge
- [Warriors on horseback](http://indonesiaetc.com/warriors-on-horseback/)
- [Sacrifice in Sumba: Indonesia Etc enhanced eBook preview](http://indonesiaetc.com/sacrifice-in-sumba-indonesia-etc-preview/) - Indonesia Etc goes to the printers this week. That ought to mean I'm done, but I've been working on an electronic version of the book that will include embedded video, audio and photos as well as the full text. Here's a taster video: The photos and things won't get in the way of the text
- [Is Indonesia more democratic than the UK?](http://indonesiaetc.com/is-indonesia-more-democratic-than-the-uk/) - Indonesians love to complain about politicians, about parliament, about political parties. But they are much more enthusiastic democrats than citizens of many other nations. More than seven out of ten of Indonesia's 171 million registered voters showed up at the polls in the last national parliamentary elections in 2009, compared with fewer than two thirds
- [Indonesia's iron-fisted seducer takes in the Rothschilds](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesias-iron-fisted-seducer-takes-in-the-rothschilds/) - The US elections, taking place as I write, have not been much on the radar screens in the parts of Indonesia I've been in lately. Unlike the Indonesian elections, which are not due until 2014. Dashing out in front of the pack is Prabowo Subianto, a Suharto clone who is not, actually, a presidential candidate
- [Reflections on Indonesia's collective amnesia](http://indonesiaetc.com/reflections-on-indonesias-collective-amnesia/) - Last month, at the Makassar Writers' Festival, I had the great privilege of meeting one of the giants of modern Indonesian literature, Ahmad Tohari. His triolgy Ronggeng Dukuh Paruk, was for years censored by its Indonesian publishers Gramedia: they removed a large chunk of writing about the killings of suspected Communist sympathisers by government troups
- [Indonesia's True Religion](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesias-true-religion/)
- [Shaking up infrastructure and politics in Aceh and Papua](http://indonesiaetc.com/shaking-up-infrastructure-and-politics-in-aceh-and-papua/) - Poor David Cameron; something always seems to steal his thunder. During his visit to Indonesia today, it was two huge earthquakes in Aceh. I'm in Aceh just now, and was watching his press conference on Indonesian TV when the room started to shake and we had to tear ourselves away from his platitudes. The UK
- [Hike skirts, not prices: diversion for Indonesian politicians](http://indonesiaetc.com/hike-skirts-not-prices-diversion-for-indonesian-politicians/) - Indonesians think about sex, or at least search for it on the internet, more than most: Indonesian was the number one language for Google searches on sex last year, and the country ranked 6th overall in sex searches (the good fellow Moslems of Pakistan led the pack for the umpteenth year; indeed seven out of
- [Taking tea with the dead. Again.](http://indonesiaetc.com/taking-tea-with-the-dead-again/) - "Taking Tea with the Dead" -- the working title of the book I'm not quite getting around to writing -- was taken from an experience over 20 years ago, when I was invited in to meet the grandmother of some random villager in Sumba. I was a little put out, on being introduced to Granny,
- [Which is worse: HIV or corruption?](http://indonesiaetc.com/which-is-worse-hiv-or-corruption/) - After another giant geographic leap (roughly the equivalent of London to Tehran) I find myself in Manokwari, West Papua. Tanah Papua, Indonesia's eastern extremity, has the country's highest rates of HIV, and also its highest levels of stigma. Which makes me wonder who came up with this commitment, made on an ageing poster that has
- [Equal Opportunity Kitsch](http://indonesiaetc.com/equal-opportunity-kitsch/) - For the last few weeks, I've been in Maluku, formerly known as the Moluccas, famous for spices and inter-religious carnage. The hideous religious riots of 1999-2002 have left a deep scar on this part of the country. Whole communities were uprooted and there was a shift between islands as people who formerly lived perfectly happily
- [Spicing up capitalism: in praise of monopolies](http://indonesiaetc.com/spicing-up-capitalism-in-praise-of-monopolies/) - I welcomed 2012 while in the Banda islands, moderately famous because just one of the nine tiny islands of this isolated group was once thought to be a fair exchange for Manhattan, something I wrote about while a Reuters correspondent in these parts two decades ago. The differing fortunes of the two islands -- the
- [What to get the kids for Christmas? A mango stone helicopter](http://indonesiaetc.com/what-to-get-the-kids-for-christmas-a-mango-stone-helicopter/) - While Indonesia's Christian churches do their best to get people excited about Christmas, the pine tree iconography has a hard time competing with the palm tree reality. Local Christmas trees are mostly made of hoops of ugly white tinsel, like the tattered hooped skirt of some antebellum Cinderella. I did, however, like this variant made
- [Fun in the rainy season](http://indonesiaetc.com/fun-in-the-rainy-season/)
- [No country for animal lovers](http://indonesiaetc.com/no-country-for-animal-lovers/) - My future is golden, according to the entrails of the chicken sacrificed on my behalf to celebrate the merapu new year. If I spend very much longer trailing around islands heavy with ritual sacrifice, it may also be vegetarian. Though I'm coming to respect the natural instincts of the animals that share every corner of
- [Notional Networks: the realities of Indonesian Telecoms](http://indonesiaetc.com/notional-networks-the-realities-of-indonesian-telcoms/) - In my proposal for Taking Tea with the Dead, I wittered on at some length about how fabulously plugged in Indonesia is. The world's second largest Facebook community, some 18 percent of all Twitter traffic. Jakarta pulsates a glorious crimson on this wonderful Twitter heat map at most times of the day and night. But
- [Two fingers up for family planning](http://indonesiaetc.com/two-fingers-up-for-family-planning/) - When I first lived in Indonesia, in the not-entirely-golden age of Suharto, family planning was one of the government's core priorities. So much so, they'd take people on safari for free. These family planning safaris involved laying out the camp beds, slapping women down on them and shoving an IUD up them. Though the programme
- [Indonesian Ferries: possession is nine-tenths of the law](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesian-ferries-possession-is-nine-tenths-of-the-law/) - Not trusting to the vagaries of shonky inter-island passenger ferries, I scheduled my visit to Sumba so that I could move on to Sabu, an even drier and poorer island in NTT, on the fortnightly PELNI boat. Needless to say, just for this one fortnight, PELNI is having the barnacles scrubbed off it. The shonky
- [Twenty years on: warrior-in-waiting heads Sumba village](http://indonesiaetc.com/twenty-years-on-warrior-in-waiting-heads-sumba-village/) - For my 30th birthday, my mother framed school reports from the time I was 12 or 13. "Elizabeth is far too fond of the sound of her own voice" and "she sometimes sails too close to the wind for comfortable passage in the flotilla." Are we really set in stone by the time we reach
- [Mystery sandal slashers](http://indonesiaetc.com/mystery-sandal-slashers/) - Note to self: don't leave sandals outside your room when you've had a scrap with the room boy and barked at the dog. Though I'm pretty sure it wasn't the dog that left my slashed sandals peeping neatly out of the bin outside my room...
- [Hair today, gone tomorrow](http://indonesiaetc.com/hair-today-gone-tomorrow/) - There's only so much of one's time one can spend thinking about other people's sex lives. I feel as though I've been doing it for a very long time -- there's more than you want to know about it over at The Wisdom. Now for something completely different. For the next year or so, I'll
- [Spinning around Sumba](http://indonesiaetc.com/spinning-around-sumba/) - Sumba is well known for its weaving; back in the day, villagers used to wait til the pods of the kapok tree kapas bush burst open to yield their cotton, then patiently spin it in to thread with nothing but a little wooden top (a jenny? am I making that up?) gyrating on a broken
- [Moncong putih: nyoblos atau main belakang?](http://indonesiaetc.com/moncong-putih-nyoblos-atau-main-belakang/) - With individuals and political parties jumping in and out of bed with one another with gay abandon, it's quite hard for a new (re)arrival to figure out what's going on in Indonesian politics. I am somewhat incorrectly on the record as a supporter of PDIP (a story too long to tell, but perhaps this banner,
- [Death to the budget! Graves in Sumba](http://indonesiaetc.com/death-to-the-budget-graves-in-sumba/) - Sumba is a graveyard of bodies and good intentions. Physically, it is littered with impressive megalithic tombs and their hideous modern counterparts. Financially, it is littered with development projects that haven't quite developed anything. "Megalithic" sounds ancient, and many are, but they are still being built today. The tomb in the photo above was built
- [Repel hazardous trespasser!](http://indonesiaetc.com/repel-hazardous-trespasser/) - You can see the hazardous trespasser reflected in the glass. For what it's worth, a more correct translation would read: For our mutual well-being, please wear your ID card. Perhaps they are worried about all the dodgy visitors going cap in hand to the top floor of the building, home of the Ford Foundation, which
- [About Portrait Indonesia](http://indonesiaetc.com/about-portrait-indonesia/) - In late 2011, epidemiologist, writer and adventurer Elizabeth Pisani granted herself a sabbatical from the day job and set off to rediscover Indonesia, a country she has wandered, loved and been baffled by for decades. On this site she will share photos and occasional musings from her journey, which, if all goes well, will cover
- [Yoga in Bali: to laugh or to cry?](http://indonesiaetc.com/yoga-in-bali-to-laugh-or-to-cry/) - Ubud is an expatirate encampment in the hills of Bali made famous by a dashing Brazilian who rode in on a white charger and saved Elizabeth Gilbert from boring the world to death with sun salutations. And it's here that I'm suffering an attack of incurable Yoga Rage. In a town where it is virtually

## Pages

- [Extras](http://indonesiaetc.com/extras/) - This page is mentioned in the print and e-book editions of "Indonesia Etc." On the website it serves as a placeholder and directs the reader to a number of additional resources available online. Slideshows Videos References
- [Donate](http://indonesiaetc.com/donate/) - Elizabeth took three years away from her day job to work full time on Indonesia Etc. Her lovely publishers Granta and Norton lent her some money against future sales to get going. They also paid for editing and copy-editing, and they (and in Indonesia, Lontar) pick up the tab for promoting the book as well
- [Indonesia Etc. eBook page for Author's version - Asia, Europe, Latin America, more](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-etc-ebook-page-for-authors-version-asia-europe-south-america-more/) - Buy the e-book directly from Elizabeth If you are in Indonesia, Singapore, most of the rest of Asia, almost any country in Europe EXCEPT the UK or Ireland and many other places in the world, you can buy the eBook from Elizabeth (via our own Kagi store). (Please check the list below: if you are
- [Indonesia  Etc. eBook page for USA, Canada, Phillippines](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-etc-ebook-page-for-usa-canada-phillippines/) - [table id=21 /]
- [Indonesia Etc. - Reviewed in Prospect Magazine - July 2014](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-etc-reviewed-in-prospect-magazine-july-2014/) - This review was posted on the Prospect Magazine website on June 19, 2014. It was printed in the July 2014 issue, #220. The site is behind a paywall. The url for the original page is http://www.prospectmagazine.co.uk/magazine/book-review-indonesia-etc-by-elizabeth-pisan/. You can get details about how to see the site at the Prospect Magazine subscription page Book review: Indonesia
- [Indonesia Etc. reviewed in the Wall Street Journal - June 20, 2014](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-etc-reviewed-in-the-wall-street-journal-june-20-2014/) - This review was posted on the Wall Street Journal website on June 20, 2014. The site is behind a paywall. The url for the original page is http://online.wsj.com/articles/book-review-indonesia-etc-by-elizabeth-pisani-1403292666. You can get details about how to see the site at the Wall Street Journal subscription page Book Review: 'Indonesia Etc.' by Elizabeth Pisani When Indonesian Muslims
- [Territorial Licensing](http://indonesiaetc.com/territorial-licensing/) - These are all the places where we cannot sell the Global Edition of the the Indonesia Etc. eBook. If you are in one of these countries please go to the Buy the Book page and look for the appropriate version for your country. WW Norton holds the exclusive rights to all English language editions of
- [Indonesia In Pieces (originally published in Foreign Affairs, May 29, 2014)](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-in-pieces/) - This article was written by Elizabeth Pisani for Foreign Affairs Magazine. It was published in the May 29, 2014 issue. The original URL is here: Indonesia In Pieces. You can find more details about Foreign affairs at their Subscription page In April, voters in Indonesia's parliamentary elections shocked many observers, confounded most pollsters, and seemed
- [Indonesia Etc eBook page for UK and Ireland, Commonwealth, Malaysia, more](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-etc-ebook-page-for-uk-and-ireland-commonwealth-malaysia-more-2/) - [table id=22 /] Here is the complete list of territories for which Granta has the exclusive e-book rights. If you are in one of these countries, you should buy this version. Ascension Australia Bangladesh Botswana British West Indies, comprising: Antigua and Barbuda Bahamas, Barbados, Belize, Bermuda, Guyana, The Caicos, Cayman, Leeward,
- [About](http://indonesiaetc.com/about/) - My publishers describe me as an adventurer and a writer as well as an epidemiologist, but really I'm just incuriably curious. In late 2011, I granted myself a sabbatical from the day job and set off to rediscover Indonesia, a country I have wandered, loved and been baffled by for decades. I planned to spend
- [Epilogue](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-chapter/epilogue/)
- [Chapter 13 – The Other Indonesia](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-chapter/chapter-13-the-other-indonesia/)
- [Chapter 12 – Faith Healing](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-chapter/chapter-12-faith-healing/)
- [Chapter 11 – Indigenous Arts](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-chapter/chapter-11-indigenous-arts/)
- [Chapter 10 – Misfits](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-chapter/chapter-10-misfits/)
- [Chapter 9 – Historical Fictions](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-chapter/chapter-9-historical-fictions/)
- [Chapter 8 – Profits on Ice](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-chapter/chapter-8-profits-on-ice/)
- [Chapter 7 – Spoils of the Earth](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-chapter/chapter-7-spoils-of-the-earth/)
- [Chapter 6 – Happy Families](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-chapter/chapter-6-happy-families/)
- [Chapter 5 – The Emperor is Far Away](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-chapter/chapter-5-the-emperor-is-faraway/)
- [Chapter 4 – Resident Aliens](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-chapter/chapter-4-resident-aliens/)
- [Chapter 3 - Sticky Culture](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-chapter/chapter-3-sticky-culture/)
- [Chapter 2 - The Ties That Bind](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-chapter/chapter-2-the-ties-that-bind/)
- [Chapter 1 - Improbable Nation](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-chapter/chapter-1-improbable-nation/)
- [Prologue](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-chapter/prologue/)
- [References by Chapter](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-chapter/) - Prologue Chapter 1 - Improbable Nation Chapter 2 - The Ties That Bind Chapter 3 - Sticky Culture Chapter 4 - Resident Aliens Chapter 5 - The Emperor is Far Away Chapter 6 - Happy Families Chapter 7 - Spoils of the Earth Chapter 8 - Profits on Ice Chapter 9 - Historical Fictions Chapter
- [Geography and Environment](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-subject/geography-and-environment/) - Geography, general Environment Transmigration Back to top Geography, general Back to top Environment Back to top Transmigration Back to top
- [Fiction](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-subject/fiction/) - Back to top
- [Social and Cultural](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-subject/social-and-cultural/) - Education Health Social structure and culture Adat and Identity Language Diaspora Media Back to top Education Back to top Health Back to top Social structure and culture Back to top Adat and identity Back to top Language Back to top Diaspora Back to top Media Back to top
- [The Economy](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-subject/the-economy/) - General Economy and Statistics Infrastructure Agriculture Mining Private Sector, Employment, Trade Back to top General economy and Statistics Back to top Infrastructure Back to top Agriculture Back to top Mining Back to top Private Sector, Employment, Trade Back to top
- [Violence and Conflict](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-subject/violence-and-conflict/) - General Violence and Premanism Aceh Maluku Kalimantan Back to top General Violence and Premanism Back to top Aceh Back to top Maluku Back to top Kalimantan Back to top
- [Politics, Governance and the Law](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-subject/politics-governance-and-the-law/) - Decentralisation (See also Social and Cultural: Adat and Identity) Corruption and governance Civil service and government Legal system Back to top Decentralisation Back to top Corruption and governance Back to top Civil service and government Back to top Legal system Back to top
- [History](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-subject/history/) - General Histories Pre-colonial and Dutch Era Nationalism, Japanese Occupation and the Sukarno era 1965 and its aftermath The Suharto era Reformasi and elections Back to top General Histories Back to top Pre-colonial and Dutch Era Back to top Nationalism, Japanese Occupation and the Sukarno era Back to top 1965 and its aftermath Back to top
- [References by Subject](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-subject/) - HISTORY POLITICS, GOVERNANCE and the LAW VIOLENCE and CONFLICT THE ECONOMY SOCIAL and CULTURAL FICTION RELIGION GEOGRAPHY AND THE ENVIRONMENT
- [Contact Elizabeth](http://indonesiaetc.com/contact-elizabeth/) - [clean-contact] Low volume Twitter from Elizabeth
- [Contact](http://indonesiaetc.com/contact/) - [clean-contact] Low volume Twitter from Elizabeth
- [Videos](http://indonesiaetc.com/videos/) - [table id=14 /]
- [Radio, TV and other appearances](http://indonesiaetc.com/media/radio-and-tv/) - BBC World Service World Update Interview with Dan Damon on the challenges facing Indonesia's new president, Joko Widodo, on October 20, 2014, the day of Jokowi's inauguration. Edited (5 minutes) version here. Berita Satu English An interview with Berita Satu editor Bhimanto Suwastoyo, about Indonesian politics and much else. In four five-minute segments: Part 1,
- [Elizabeth's Writing Elsewhere](http://indonesiaetc.com/media/elizabeths-writing-elsewhere/) - Jakarta rejects rent-a-mob politics, for now - Nikkei Asian Review - Feb. 18, 2017 'Biggest invisible thing on earth?' – It's called Indonesia, and it's waking up - The Guardian - November 21, 2016 - (And see Elizabeths commentary on what she could *not* write in the article for the Guardian here: Ignoring Indonesia: What
- [eBook](http://indonesiaetc.com/ebook/) - This page has moved to : eBook Global Edition
- [Buy the E-book from Elizabeth](http://indonesiaetc.com/ebook/buy-the-e-book-from-elizabeth/)
- [Reviews](http://indonesiaetc.com/media/reviews/) - Indonesia Etc. named in "Best of 2014" lists at The Wall Street Journal and The Economist The Economist, June 21, 2014 A beautifully written, richly entertaining account...there are very few good books in English to help the general reader to understand (Indonesia). Ms Pisani’s is probably the best. Simon Winchester, in The Wall Street Journal,
- [Mark thanks you for your donation](http://indonesiaetc.com/mark-thanks-you-for-your-donation/) - Thanks for your donation! There are always more records to be found...
- [Thanks for your donation](http://indonesiaetc.com/elizabeth-thanks-you-for-your-donation/) - I really do need a new pair of sandals...
- [Media](http://indonesiaetc.com/media/)
- [Sore Losers Spite Indonesia's Democracy - Elizabeth Pisani - The New York Times](http://indonesiaetc.com/sore-losers-spite-indonesias-democracy-elizabeth-pisani-the-new-york-times/) - A version of this op-ed appears in print on October 8, 2014, in the Opinion pages of the NYTimes online and in The International New York Times. We reproduce it here for archival purposes. JAKARTA, Indonesia — As Indonesia’s departing president, Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono, spoke last month in the United States about the importance of
- [Indonesia Etc Multimedia eBook](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-etc-multimedia-ebook/) - Quick Links to Multimedia eBook (which includes videos shot by Elizabeth, as well as slideshows, photos and sound recordings) Most of Western Europe (except UK), Asia, Africa, Latin America: Plain and Enhanced Multimedia eBook USA, Canada and Philippines: Multimedia eBook or Plain eBook UK, Ireland, Australia, NZ, the Commonwealth, Malaysia: Multimedia eBook or Plain eBook
- [Jakarta attacks not sign of country tipping into fundamentalism - Elizabeth Pisani - FT - Jan14 2016 - Archive](http://indonesiaetc.com/jakarta-attacks-not-sign-of-country-tipping-into-fundamentalism-elizabeth-pisani-ft-jan14-2016-archive/) - This article was originally published at The Financial Times. The full .pdf is here. We include it on our site for archival purposes. [pdf-embedder url="http://indonesiaetc.com/wp-content/uploads/Jakarta-attacks-not-sign-of-country-tipping-into-fundamentalism-Elizabeth-Pisani-FT-Jan-14-2016-page-1.pdf"] [pdf-embedder url="http://indonesiaetc.com/wp-content/uploads/Jakarta-attacks-not-sign-of-country-tipping-into-fundamentalism-Elizabeth-Pisani-FT-Jan-14-2016-page-2.pdf"] [pdf-embedder url="http://indonesiaetc.com/wp-content/uploads/Jakarta-attacks-not-sign-of-country-tipping-into-fundamentalism-Elizabeth-Pisani-FT-Jan-14-2016-page-3.pdf"]
- [Buy the Book](http://indonesiaetc.com/buy-the-book/) - Elizabeth made videos, took photos and recorded sound on her travels. You can find them in the multi-media version of Indonesia Etc.
- [Teatime with an Indonesian sultan - Elizabeth Pisani - The Financial Times](http://indonesiaetc.com/teatime-with-an-indonesian-sultan-elizabeth-pisani-the-financial-times/) - This article originally appeared in the Travel section of The Financial Times. The original URL is http://www.ft.com/intl/cms/s/2/8690e162-0861-11e4-9afc-00144feab7de.html You can Subscribe to The Financial Times here July 18, 2014 5:37 pm Teatime with an Indonesian sultan By Elizabeth Pisani After decades of slumber, local sultanates and kingdoms are being kissed back to life by political decentralisation
- [Indonesia Etc reviewed in New York times Sunday Book Review - August 3, 2014](http://indonesiaetc.com/indonesia-etc-reviewed-in-new-york-times-sunday-book-review-august-3-2014/) - All Over the Map 'Indonesia Etc.' by Elizabeth Pisani (Reviewed by) Joshua Kurlantzick, August 01, 2014 This year, three of the world’s largest democracies are holding national elections — vast polls spread over several days and thousands of miles of territory, involving more than a billion voters. Two of these elections have attracted intense media
- [Buy the Book](http://indonesiaetc.com/global-edition-2/) - Get the multimedia ebook, which contains photos, slideshows, videos, recordings of priests chanting by moonlight, letters to Elizabeth from Generals and rebels and lots of other fun stuff. (Note: This is a very large file, which works best on an iPad, but also works on Android using Namo Pubtree Viewer) BUY THE MULTIMEDIA eBOOK HEREThe
- [Elizabeth Pisani Talks Corruption, Direct Elections, Etc. - WSJ Blogs](http://indonesiaetc.com/elizabeth-pisani-talks-corruption-direct-elections-etc-wsj-blogs/) - This article originally appeared on September 29, 2014 in The Southeast Asia Realtime blog of the Wall Street Journal. The original page is here. This page is here for archival purposes only. Elizabeth Pisani, a former journalist, analyst, consultant for various government health agencies and author of the new book “Indonesia, Etc.,” calls direct elections
- [Events](http://indonesiaetc.com/events/) - UPCOMING EVENTS Sunday October 4th, 09.15 - 10.15 King's College, London Indonesia Scholar International Convention Details and conference tickets Wednesday October 14th, 11.00 - 11.45 Frankfurt Book Fair, 4.0 C80 The Art of Travelling I'll be moderating a discussion with the wonderful Agustinus Wibowo and other travel writers at the Indonesia pavilion, to celebrate my
- [References](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/) - References by Subject References by Chapter
- [Slideshows](http://indonesiaetc.com/slideshows/) - [table id=16 /]
- [Global Edition](http://indonesiaetc.com/global-edition/) - The "plain" ePub version of the ebook is now avaialble. It works on most e-readers including, with a little bit of fiddling around from you, on a Kindle. A .mobi version for Kindles will should be available soon. BUY THE PLAIN eBOOK HERE (This will take you to our Plain eBook store, maintained by Kagi)
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- [Religion](http://indonesiaetc.com/references/references-by-subject/religion/) - Back to top

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- [Jakarta](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/jakarta/)
- [Sumba](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/sumba/)
- [NTT](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/ntt/)
- [Anakalang](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/anakalang/)
- [megalithic tomb](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/megalithic-tomb/)
- [Christian](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/christian/)
- [Waikabubak](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/waikabubak/)
- [Peliplus Pekaba](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/peliplus-pekaba/)
- [Then and now](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/then-and-now/)
- [Weird & wonderful](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/weird-wonderful/)
- [Sandals](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/sandals/)
- [Ferries](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/ferries/)
- [Catholic](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/catholic/)
- [BVM](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/bvm/)
- [Technology](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/technology/)
- [social media](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/social-media/)
- [internet](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/internet/)
- [Ford Foundation](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/ford-foundation/)
- [Merlyna Lim](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/merlyna-lim/)
- [Twitter](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/twitter/)
- [Family planning](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/family-planning/)
- [Population](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/population/)
- [KB](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/kb/)
- [Condoms](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/condoms/)
- [Fiesta](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/fiesta/)
- [Sutra](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/sutra/)
- [Contraception](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/contraception/)
- [Telecommunications](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/telecommunications/)
- [Flores](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/flores/)
- [Medicine](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/medicine/)
- [Tetracycline](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/tetracycline/)
- [Ciprofloxacin](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/ciprofloxacin/)
- [Antimicrobial resistance](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/antimicrobial-resistance/)
- [Economy](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/economy/)
- [Finance](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/finance/)
- [Banking](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/banking/)
- [Credit](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/credit/)
- [Interest rates](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/interest-rates/)
- [Whale hunting](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/whale-hunting/)
- [Lembata](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/lembata/)
- [Chlamydia](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/chlamydia/)
- [STIs](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/stis/)
- [Whale meat](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/whale-meat/)
- [Lamalera](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/lamalera/)
- [Pigs](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/pigs/)
- [Chickens](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/chickens/)
- [Sacrifice](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/sacrifice/)
- [Animal rights](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/animal-rights/)
- [Wellcome Collection](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/wellcome-collection/)
- [Tarong](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/tarong/)
- [Rubbish](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/rubbish/)
- [Litter](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/litter/)
- [Garbage](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/garbage/)
- [Police](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/police/)
- [Dolphin](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/dolphin/)
- [Maluku](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/maluku/)
- [Infrastructure](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/infrastructure/)
- [Shipping](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/shipping/)
- [Ports](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/ports/)
- [Development](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/development/)
- [Regional autonomy](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/regional-autonomy/)
- [Otonomi daerah](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/otonomi-daerah/)
- [HIV](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/hiv/)
- [AIDS](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/aids/)
- [HIV prevention](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/hiv-prevention/)
- [Transgender](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/transgender/)
- [Waria](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/waria/)
- [Christmas](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/christmas/)
- [Traditional games](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/traditional-games/)
- [Toys](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/toys/)
- [Roads](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/roads/)
- [Moslem](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/moslem/)
- [Nutmeg](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/nutmeg/)
- [Banda Islands](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/banda-islands/)
- [Colonialism](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/colonialism/)
- [Capitalism](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/capitalism/)
- [Alfred Wallace](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/alfred-wallace/)
- [Michael Schuman](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/michael-schuman/)
- [Curious Capitalist](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/curious-capitalist/)
- [Justice](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/justice/)
- [Cheating](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/cheating/)
- [Indonesia Mengajar](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/indonesia-mengajar/)
- [Transparency International](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/transparency-international/)
- [PDIP](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/pdip/)
- [Halmahera Tengah](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/halmahera-tengah/)
- [Weda](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/weda/)
- [Al Yasin Ali](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/al-yasin-ali/)
- [Mining](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/mining/)
- [Eramet](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/eramet/)
- [Mitsubishi](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/mitsubishi/)
- [Weda Bay Nickel](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/weda-bay-nickel/)
- [Halmahera](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/halmahera/)
- [CSR](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/csr/)
- [Blackberry](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/blackberry/)
- [Blackjelly](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/blackjelly/)
- [Mobile phones](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/mobile-phones/)
- [Trademarks](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/trademarks/)
- [Aceh](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/aceh/)
- [Partai Aceh](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/partai-aceh/)
- [FPI](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/fpi/)
- [Islam](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/islam/)
- [Dayak](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/dayak/)
- [Kalimantan](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/kalimantan/)
- [Papua](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/papua/)
- [Stigma](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/stigma/)
- [Indonesian politicis](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/indonesian-politicis/)
- [Teluk Wondama](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/teluk-wondama/)
- [Tolikara](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/tolikara/)
- [Wamena](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/wamena/)
- [penis extension](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/penis-extension/)
- [Weapons](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/weapons/)
- [Violence](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/violence/)
- [Prison](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/prison/)
- [Jail](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/jail/)
- [Kerobokan](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/kerobokan/)
- [Amir Syamsuddin](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/amir-syamsuddin/)
- [Anti-pornography bill](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/anti-pornography-bill/)
- [Fuel subsidy](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/fuel-subsidy/)
- [Coffee](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/coffee/)
- [Power tools](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/power-tools/)
- [Intel](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/intel/)
- [Irwandi Yusuf](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/irwandi-yusuf/)
- [David Cameron](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/david-cameron/)
- [UK](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/uk/)
- [Investment](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/investment/)
- [Earthquake](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/earthquake/)
- [Zaini Abdullah](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/zaini-abdullah/)
- [Sharia law](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/sharia-law/)
- [Environment](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/environment/)
- [Conservation](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/conservation/)
- [Turtles](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/turtles/)
- [Yayasan Pulau Banyak](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/yayasan-pulau-banyak/)
- [Giant clams](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/giant-clams/)
- [Education](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/education/)
- [World Bank](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/world-bank/)
- [Endang Sedyaningsih](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/endang-sedyaningsih/)
- [Siti Fadilah](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/siti-fadilah/)
- [Kramat Tunggak](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/kramat-tunggak/)
- [sex work](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/sex-work/)
- [prostitution](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/prostitution/)
- [Cradle](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/cradle/)
- [Deforestation](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/deforestation/)
- [Orang Rimba](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/orang-rimba/)
- [Bukit Duabelas National Park](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/bukit-duabelas-national-park/)
- [Jambi](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/jambi/)
- [Sumatra](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/sumatra/)
- [Butet Manurung](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/butet-manurung/)
- [The Jungle School](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/the-jungle-school/)
- [Lady Gaga](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/lady-gaga/)
- [Pelni](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/pelni/)
- [Mosque](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/mosque/)
- [Sulawesi](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/sulawesi/)
- [Asphalt](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/asphalt/)
- [Buton](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/buton/)
- [Buton Asphalt International](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/buton-asphalt-international/)
- [Road safety](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/road-safety/)
- [Road deaths](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/road-deaths/)
- [Traffic accidents](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/traffic-accidents/)
- [Motorcycle sales](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/motorcycle-sales/)
- [Makassar Writers' Festival](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/makassar-writers-festival/)
- [Prospect magazine](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/prospect-magazine/)
- [Smoking](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/smoking/)
- [Tobacco control](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/tobacco-control/)
- [Sampoerna](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/sampoerna/)
- [Nostalgia for the Light](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/nostalgia-for-the-light/)
- [Patricio Guzman](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/patricio-guzman/)
- [Chile](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/chile/)
- [1965](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/1965/)
- [G30S](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/g30s/)
- [Sang Penari](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/sang-penari/)
- [Olympics](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/olympics/)
- [Sports](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/sports/)
- [Language](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/language/)
- [Semen Gresik](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/semen-gresik/)
- [Unspun](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/unspun/)
- [Elections](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/elections/)
- [Jokowi](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/jokowi/)
- [Ahok](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/ahok/)
- [Ethnic Chinese](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/ethnic-chinese/)
- [Singkawang](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/singkawang/)
- [Kalbar](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/kalbar/)
- [colonial policy](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/colonial-policy/)
- [Dutch East Indies](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/dutch-east-indies/)
- [Dedi Gumelar](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/dedi-gumelar/)
- [Manchester United](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/manchester-united/)
- [Buses](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/buses/)
- [Java](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/java/)
- [Semarang](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/semarang/)
- [Kota Lama](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/kota-lama/)
- [Colonial architecture](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/colonial-architecture/)
- [Prabowo Subianto](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/prabowo-subianto/)
- [Gerindra](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/gerindra/)
- [Nat Rotshchild](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/nat-rotshchild/)
- [Bumi plc](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/bumi-plc/)
- [Nafsiah Mboi](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/nafsiah-mboi/)
- [UNAIDS](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/unaids/)
- [Wawonii](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/wawonii/)
- [Southeast Sulawesi](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/southeast-sulawesi/)
- [Sulawesi Tenggara](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/sulawesi-tenggara/)
- [Inside Indonesia](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/inside-indonesia/)
- [humour](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/humour/)
- [laughs](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/laughs/)
- [New York TImes](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/new-york-times/)
- [Military](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/military/)
- [Law](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/law/)
- [oknum](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/oknum/)
- [Lawyers](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/lawyers/)
- [expatriate](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/expatriate/)
- [blogs](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/blogs/)
- [books](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/books/)
- [Claire Bolderson](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/claire-bolderson/)
- [health insurance](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/health-insurance/)
- [Indonesia Etc](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/indonesia-etc/)
- [Jamkesmas](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/jamkesmas/)
- [Malinda Dee](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/malinda-dee/)
- [PISA](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/pisa/)
- [Portrait Indonesia](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/portrait-indonesia/)
- [Jim O'Neill](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/jim-oneill/)
- [MINTs](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/mints/)
- [The Act of Killing](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/the-act-of-killing/)
- [Oscar](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/oscar/)
- [film](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/film/)
- [Komnas HAM](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/komnas-ham/)
- [Joshua Oppenheimer](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/joshua-oppenheimer/)
- [Nationalism](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/nationalism/)
- [vote-buying](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/vote-buying/)
- [Gita Wirjawan](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/gita-wirjawan/)
- [Michael Buehler](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/michael-buehler/)
- [ritual](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/ritual/)
- [slideshow](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/slideshow-2/)
- [history](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/history/)
- [marketplace](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/marketplace/)
- [medicine sellers](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/medicine-sellers/)
- [markets](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/markets/)
- [machete](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/machete/)
- [Banda Aceh](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/banda-aceh/)
- [Bowae](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/bowae/)
- [Waingapu](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/waingapu/)
- [Sintang](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/sintang/)
- [Putussibau](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/putussibau/)
- [Tahune](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/tahune/)
- [Sangihe](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/sangihe/)
- [Mandado](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/mandado/)
- [turtle eggs](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/turtle-eggs/)
- [crabs](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/crabs/)
- [democracy](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/democracy/)
- [prisoners' rights](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/prisoners-rights/)
- [Rhoma Irama](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/rhoma-irama/)
- [Catholicism](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/catholicism/)
- [Yogyakarta](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/yogyakarta/)
- [Jogjakarta](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/jogjakarta/)
- [Sultan Hamengkubwono X](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/sultan-hamengkubwono-x/)
- [coronation](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/coronation/)
- [Enny Nuraheni](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/enny-nuraheni/)
- [pasola](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/pasola/)
- [HSBC](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/hsbc/)
- [ebook](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/ebook/)
- [enhanced ebook](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/enhanced-ebook/)
- [Gaetan Bernede](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/gaetan-bernede/)
- [Darwin Lopena](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/darwin-lopena/)
- [multimedia](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/multimedia/)
- [ePub3](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/epub3/)
- [Joko Widodo](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/joko-widodo/)
- [mental revolution](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/mental-revolution/)
- [Jalanan](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/jalanan/)
- [Daniel Ziv](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/daniel-ziv/)
- [street music](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/street-music/)
- [Basuki Tjahaja Purnama](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/basuki-tjahaja-purnama/)
- [Menuk Suwondo](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/menuk-suwondo/)
- [China](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/china/)
- [Tiananmen Square](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/tiananmen-square/)
- [25th Anniversary](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/25th-anniversary/)
- [Granta Magazine](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/granta-magazine/)
- [Foreign Affairs Magazine](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/foreign-affairs-magazine/)
- [Jeff Wasserstrom](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/jeff-wasserstrom/)
- [Andrew Nathan](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/andrew-nathan/)
- [Louisa Lim](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/louisa-lim/)
- [presidential election](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/presidential-election/)
- [reviews](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/reviews/)
- [The Economist](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/the-economist/)
- [e-book](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/e-book/)
- [BBC World Service](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/bbc-world-service/)
- [Rob Allyn](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/rob-allyn/)
- [Granta](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/granta/)
- [BitLit](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/bitlit/)
- [bundling](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/bundling/)
- [birthday](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/birthday/)
- [independence](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/independence/)
- [barbie factory](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/barbie-factory/)
- [itinerant vendors](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/itinerant-vendors/)
- [markets on the move](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/markets-on-the-move/)
- [sleep](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/sleep/)
- [sport](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/sport/)
- [Whaling](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/whaling/)
- [whale bones](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/whale-bones/)
- [dolphins](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/dolphins/)
- [whale oil](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/whale-oil/)
- [Bupati's offices](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/bupatis-offices/)
- [Bupati](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/bupati/)
- [bureaucracy](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/bureaucracy/)
- [decentralisation](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/decentralisation/)
- [district offices](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/district-offices/)
- [Ternate](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/ternate/)
- [mudslide](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/mudslide/)
- [volcano](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/volcano/)
- [refugees](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/refugees/)
- [tent kitchen](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/tent-kitchen/)
- [bridges](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/bridges/)
- [piers](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/piers/)
- [Tangse](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/tangse/)
- [Rimba](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/rimba/)
- [National park](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/national-park/)
- [palm oil](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/palm-oil/)
- [plantation](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/plantation/)
- [Bukit 12 National Park](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/bukit-12-national-park/)
- [Banggai](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/banggai/)
- [living on the water](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/living-on-the-water/)
- [stilt houses](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/stilt-houses/)
- [Dayak longhouse](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/dayak-longhouse/)
- [Ensaid Panjang](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/ensaid-panjang/)
- [West Kalimantan](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/west-kalimantan/)
- [longhouse](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/longhouse/)
- [Army](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/army/)
- [mural](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/mural/)
- [sculpture](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/sculpture/)
- [Batik](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/batik/)
- [batik tool](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/batik-tool/)
- [batik wax](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/batik-wax/)
- [batik template](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/batik-template/)
- [Polling stations](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/polling-stations/)
- [Menteng](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/menteng/)
- [Tanah Tinggi](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/tanah-tinggi/)
- [floods](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/floods/)
- [dwarves](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/dwarves/)
- [albinos](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/albinos/)
- [albino dwarves](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/albino-dwarves/)
- [Sultan](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/sultan/)
- [garbage bank](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/garbage-bank/)
- [trash](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/trash/)
- [North Sulawesi](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/north-sulawesi/)
- [Pontianak](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/pontianak/)
- [Surabaya](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/surabaya/)
- [Tanimbar](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/tanimbar/)
- [Mama Lina](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/mama-lina/)
- [Adonara](http://indonesiaetc.com/tag/adonara/)
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